
The Island I Never Reached
Why I wanted to go Plain curiosity, mostly. Look at a map of the South Atlantic and the thing is absurd. There is an archipelago sitting just off the Argentine coast, close enough to feel like part of the geography,…

Why I wanted to go Plain curiosity, mostly. Look at a map of the South Atlantic and the thing is absurd. There is an archipelago sitting just off the Argentine coast, close enough to feel like part of the geography,…

I’ll be upfront: I’m not the person who closes down clubs until 6am. My version of a good Buenos Aires night is a long dinner with good wine, maybe a rooftop bar afterward, and home before things get too late.…

One of the things I appreciated most about eight years in Palermo was the food. The beef is genuinely exceptional. Avocados are cheaper than almost anywhere I’ve been. Produce markets are within walking distance of most apartments. And if you…

Finding a genuinely good cafe for remote work in Palermo is harder than it looks. WiFi that drops mid-video-call, one outlet shared between eight tables, espresso machines so loud you can’t hear yourself think — the wrong cafe kills a…

Every Buenos Aires itinerary on the internet tells you the same thing: Recoleta Cemetery, La Boca selfie, tango show, steak. And sure, they’re all worth doing. But if that’s all you see, you’ll fly home thinking Buenos Aires is a…

I need to come clean about something. When people ask me what I miss most about Buenos Aires, I don’t say the tango, the steak, or the wine. I say the pizza. That answer usually gets a confused look. Pizza?…